Repair/Replace Damaged Lawns Now
By Roger Larson | 11th October 2008
The weather has not been kind to our lawns the past 18 months. However, rains and predictions for normal rainfall for the next 90 days means that things should improve, states David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Springfield Center. Lawns thinned out—by hot, dry temperatures, diseases or insects—but otherwise satisfactory can be renovated without destroying the entire lawn. If the lawn is thatchy, core aerify to produce a core hole every two inches throughout the lawn. Thatch is a brown fibrous layer between the soil and the green part of the grass. Core aerifying machines can be rented, or landscapers and lawn companies can provide the service. Mow the lawn short and thoroughly rake it to loosen the soil and to make a shallow seedbed. A power rake, also available from rental stores, will make the job easier if the area is sizeable. Sow a blend of Kentucky bluegrass varieties. Use about two pounds of seed per 1000 square feet of lawn. Use a spreader. Over-seed with about 25 percent by weight of perennial ryegrass. Drag or rake the seed into prepared seedbed, and roll to firm. To completely replace a lawn that has been invaded by quackgrass or other tenacious perennial weeds, close attention to certain procedures will prevent reappearance of the problems. If the old lawn was free of thatch and unevenness and was otherwise satisfactory (other than the weeds), slit seed into the old lawn with a blend of Kentucky bluegrasses, and over-seed with perennial ryegrass. As with core aerifiers, slit seeder machines are available from some rental agencies, or landscapers can do the work. If the old lawn was thatchy, uneven, poorly drained, compact or otherwise undesirable, strip off the existing lawn with a sod cutter, being sure to remove all the accumulated thatch. Plow, rototill, disc or otherwise work the soil to a depth of six inches. Remove stones and other debris, and smooth-grade the area to provide a uniform surface free of depressions and high spots. Apply “starter” fertilizer, and rake it into the soil surface. The area is then ready to either seed or sod. If you seed, spread a blend of Kentucky bluegrass and about 20 percent ryegrass. Rake in the seeds lightly, allowing some seed to remain on the surface. Mulch with about two inches of straw. Either water the seedbed and keep it moist until plant growth is well established, or allow nature to provide the water.
If you choose to lay sod, buy sod grown on soil as nearly like that in your yard as you can find. Moisten the soil before laying the sod and keep the sod wet for about 15-20 days until roots begin to grow into the soil. Your lawn is one of the most important components of your landscape. It enhances the beauty of other ornamental plantings as it provides an attractive setting for your home. A lawn also reduces mud, dust, heat, noise and glare. To develop and maintain an attractive lawn, cultural practices such as mowing, watering and fertilizing should be performed regularly. Weeds, insects, and diseases should be controlled soon after the early signs of their development. Other problems, such as thatch and severe compaction of the soil, should be reduced by whatever means are appropriate to prevent deterioration of the lawn. If you have other questions, call the Peoria County Extension Office. Phone 685-3140 or: www.extension.uiuc.edu/peoria.


