Not many people were happy with their tomato crop last year. Mostly because the crop was very late in maturing, and then quite a few of the plants died prior to providing a full crop. There is not much we can do to increase maturity once the crop is in the ground. (The unseasonably cool and cloudy weather did not provide many heat units, which caused plants to delay fruiting.) The only way to speed up maturity is to plant a shorter season variety; but once they are in the ground, it is kind of late.

There are ways we can protect the plant from dying early. Last year’s problems were mainly due to excessive disease pressure which caused leaf defoliation. Because of the cool and wet summer, leaf diseases were the worst I had ever seen. I do not think anyone was discriminated against by diseases such as: septoria, early blight, bacterial spot and bacterial speck (these being the most common).

To prevent these diseases from repeating their actions of last year, consider the following. First, make sure you rotate your crops in the garden. Many diseases can overwinter in the soil, and planting the same crop back into the same spot only increases the risk. The same is true for all crops. Rotate so that you only plant the same crop family every 3-4 years in the same spot. Tomatoes are in the same family as potato, egg plant and pepper.

Promote good air circulation. The longer the leaf stays wet, the greater the chance of disease. Try these ideas: stake or cage tomato plants; leave plenty of space between the plants; place your rows north-south so sunlight hits either morning or afternoon to help dry plants; have plenty of open space around the garden to take advantage of winds. These can all help. If providing water, use soaker hoses to keep foliage dry, or use sprinklers in the early afternoon so that the plant is dry prior to nightfall.

Strongly consider mulching after the plants have established well. Fungal diseases (septoria and early blight) survive in the soil, and splashing rains bring these diseases into contact with the leaf. You will notice that the first tomato leaves that show fungal disease problems are the lower ones, because they stay wetter longer and they are closer to the soil. Once the disease starts on the lower part of the plant, additional rainfall splashes the disease inoculum higher on the plant. Use straw, (non- treated) grass clippings, newspapers, or plastic after the plants have gotten established (tomatoes like warm soil and mulches reduce soil warmth). This also helps control weeds. The bacterial diseases are carried by winds, and are usually seen first on the upper portion of the plant.

Lastly consider a fungicide, such as chlorothalonil, although if wet weather is absent, disease pressure should be reduced. Septoria and early blight are fungal diseases that chlorothalonil can provide help with. The two bacterial diseases can be reduced with copper sprays. If, and how often, to spray will depend upon summer weather patterns. Dry weather will mean less disease potential, wet weather will mean more. Always follow directions on the label.

If you have other questions concerning gardening issues, call the Peoria County Extension Master Gardener Helpline. The number is 309-685-3140 or www.extension.uiuc.edu/peoria.